tabris' scanning tutorial. ^_^
you will need:
image editing software (photoshop preferred)
bottle of windex
relatively lint-free cloth
phone book or other heavy book (at least 1, i use 2 of different sizes)
black construction paper
if your scanner has a removable top, take it off. you won't need it, that's what the phonebooks are for.
IMPORTANT! windex the scanner glass. nothing drives me battier than finding huge resolution scans with crap all over them.
place something next to the scanner so that when you lay the magazine down, it's level. otherwise it'll pull up, even with a phonebook on top.
find the page you want to scan. then insert a sheet of black construction paper behind it. this keeps any text or images on the other side from bleeding through and evens it out. even if the image is mostly dark colors, still use the paper. for cds i use half a sheet behind each page. this is Important.
without black paper behind the page
with black paper behind the page
some of you may get queasy here. you can be as gentle as you like, but magazine spines really are much more resilient than you'd think. photobooks, on the other hand... not so much. anyways. once you've figured out how much of the image is going to get cut off (because it inevitably will, unless you feel like doing each page in halves and then piecing them together), line up the outer edge where you want it to be. then pick up your phone book and set it down on the main part of the page. i usually hold the spine down with my hand if it's sticking up a lot, or use another phone book and use the edge of it just on the spine (which is why that other phonebook is there on the side).
open your image editing program. i use photoshop cs, but it shouldn't be too different in any program. file > import > scanner (or whichever setting yours uses). this should bring up the manufacturer's import option/program.
here's the fun part. image settings. now, my scanner is nice enough to have an automatic mode for magazines that takes out the bubble printer effect. and auto-color, but lately i've been forgoing the auto color and instead using photoshop. the settings below are for an epson 2480 scanner, but most newer scanners should have someting similar.
dpi: 400, any larger and it defeats the purpose of the descreen function
brightness/contrast: usually left at 0, on extremely bright or extremely dark pages, you may need to raise or lower accordingly. the preview function is your friend. same goes for the gamma setting. different colors may require more adjustment. generally i preview a page somewhere in between and just leave the setting there unless i do something extreme.
after you've made sure you have all of the page you want, and that colors are reasonably accurate, hit the scan button. if you hold down the spine with your hand while doing it, make absolutely sure not to move or you'll end up with wonky lines going across it.
editing time. at the very least, crop your images. i go a bit further than that for mine though. the best way to do it is to have the image sitting next to you so that you can compare colors. rarely will they match exactly, but at least you can get an idea.
levels: image>adjustments>levels (adjust the absolute values for whie and black for the entire image, generally don't set them as absolute or you loose detail and light colors go funky)
saturation: image>adjustments>hue/saturation (auto-color often times will oversaturate the image, use the middle slider to lower the saturation until it matches the original)
contrast: image>adjustments>brightness/contrast (contrast here, adjust overall tone with the levels, i only really use this if the image is being uncooperative, levels and saturation are usually enough)
this is the part that can take a while, especially if the image is dark or the source is damaged. in photoshop, select the healing brush tool. if there are any stray specks or fuzzies, alt+click on the area that best matches what it is supposed to look like, then draw over the bad area. the tool will replace it with the selected area and show you where it is pulling from with an alternate mark. i'd cap it, but on a mac the screencap function doesn't show the cursor. when i do this, i view it full size, start at the top right and scroll down, over, back up and repeat until i've gone over the whole image to make sure there's nothing weird.
repairing a fuzzy (before and after)
repairing stray marks. also used to remove the faint image of the back page (before and after)
save the final product! i typically save at full resolution in png format for my ownh archival purposes, then resize to 1700-2000px high (for magazines) and save that version in jpg format. quality setting will be good at 10 with a fairly low filesize, except in cases of large amounts of red; then i usually try to do 11. depending on your target filesize you can readjust the size and quality to your liking.
i hope that helped even a couple of you out. if you have any questions, feel free to ask. especially on the healing brush thing... it took me a while to figure out how to use it effectively but it's now become my best graphics friend.
and i think that's it. feedback would be appreciated. ^^